Chemical Peel: all types of chemical exfoliation and their results

The chemical peel is a facial and body rejuvenation treatment. It can be performed with various substances such as AHA acids, cosmetic and dermatological acids, and although it is ideal to have it done in a dermatological clinic, where there is greater safety and better results before and after, it is also possible to perform it at home.

What is a chemical peel?

It is a skin rejuvenation procedure that uses chemical substances to remove the stratum corneum or the superficial layer of the epidermis.

Through the chemical peel or chemical exfoliation, it is possible to remove dead cells, eliminate facial spots, reduce hyperpigmentation, as well as reduce the presence of acne scars and other skin conditions.

There are different types of chemical peels depending on the type of substance used. Some are more aggressive than others, and it is appropriate to use them based on the type of skin issue you have or if the goal is to rejuvenate the skin.

Since there are various options for facial and body rejuvenation, we will list and explain them below so that you can clearly understand which one might be the best choice to regain the youth of your face and achieve youthful, beautiful skin.

Types of chemical peels

• Facial chemical peel.
• Body.
• Ultrasonic.
• Enzymatic.
• Deep.
• Medium.
• Superficial.
• Home-made.

Facial chemical peel

As the name suggests, this type of chemical peel is for the face. It can be performed by applying different abrasive substances that remove the corneal layer of the skin, promoting cellular tissue regeneration, increasing collagen production, and resulting in a lifting effect on the face.

The facial chemical peel is a dermocosmetic treatment that causes cellular renewal. The process is very fast since the stratum corneum is eliminated in just a few minutes. The slower part comes after, which is the skin’s regeneration, which takes several weeks after applying the facial peel.

Depending on each person, it is appropriate to use glycolic acid, phenol, salicylic acid, and other types of chemical exfoliations that we will explain in this article.

The function, what the chemical facial peel is for, is to rejuvenate the skin of the face, producing more softness, eliminating open pores and scars, as well as reducing facial spots caused by excess hyperpigmentation due to the accumulation of melanin in the skin. Due to its depigmenting properties, the pigments created by melanocytes decrease.

If you want to see the prices for the facial peel, they are listed at the end.

Body

The only difference with the facial peel is the area where it is applied. The body chemical peel is a procedure in which chemical substances are used in specific areas of the body such as the armpits, groin, chest, legs, and feet.

The application of the body peel is topical, meaning it is always applied to the skin and never subdermally or beneath it.

As you can imagine, the advantages and benefits of this type of treatment for rejuvenating the skin are enormous…

On one hand, it facilitates cell renewal, bringing youthfulness to certain areas of the body, and on the other hand, the benefits of the body peel are eliminating stretch marks and scars caused by various factors such as trauma, surgeries, etc.

If you’re interested in the prices of the body peel, they are indicated at the end of the article so you can have real data before making your decision.

Ultrasonic

Although it is not technically a “chemical” type since no chemical substances are used, the ultrasonic peel is very popular and can offer significant advantages over other facial treatments.

The ultrasonic peel instead of using acids and abrasives for the skin, uses a machine that emits ultrasound. This ultrasound device can act on the outer layer of the skin, producing ultrasonic exfoliation, meaning it removes the layer of superficial cells from the epidermis.

The results are similar to those of the chemical peel, but it has the advantage that the application time does not need to be controlled precisely as happens, for example, with glycolic or salicylic acids.

This is not entirely true because the application still needs to be controlled, but with chemicals, one or two extra minutes of exposure can severely damage the skin, while with the ultrasonic peel, no cosmetic acids are used as with the other types of exfoliations.

The disadvantage of the ultrasonic peel is that it is much more expensive for the clinic. Therefore, these costs are often passed on to the client as is logical.

The aesthetic clinic has to buy an expensive machine, which is very different from exfoliation done with acids and chemical substances, which only require the exfoliating products.

On the plus side, it is much cleaner. There are no need for potions and mixtures, which increases safety if the person performing it is not so experienced.

Enzymatic

This version of the peel is much gentler than the chemical exfoliation and targets the enzymes in the skin. Its function is to regulate the normal function of each dermal enzyme so that they work better and can produce complete facial rejuvenation.

The enzymatic peel is applied topically, removing dead cells and impurities from the skin. It cleans pores, blackheads, pimples, and blemishes.

To prepare the compound applied to the face, enzymes and coenzymes are used in the form of a mask, which is applied like any other facial cosmetic. Clearly, since it produces exfoliation, the application times and the percentages of the mixture used must be controlled.

Although it is less aggressive than the chemical peel, it should be done with care and knowledge of how the products work to achieve the best results. Also, it helps save costs by using substances that are not necessary to treat the skin’s enzymes.

Benefits of the enzymatic peel

• Skin rejuvenation.
• Elimination of dry and flaky skin.
• Reduction of facial spots.
• Elimination of expression lines, wrinkles, and small scars.

In general, with the use of the enzymatic peel, you can achieve fewer dilated pores and much smoother skin, improving color and providing more freshness while reducing typical imperfections caused by age.

Deep Peel

It is one of the most complex chemical peels because its reach is greater than the others. To perform the deep chemical peel, more aggressive cosmetic acids need to be used, the epidermis is more damaged, but its results are much more complete. A much greater rejuvenation of the skin can be observed.

The goal of the deep peel is to reach several layers of skin, not just the stratum corneum.

In this deep exfoliation, beta-hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, phenol, and trichloroacetic acid are commonly used. Other chemical exfoliants can be used, but these are the ones most commonly applied in treatments.

The deep facial chemical exfoliation or deep peeling should be performed by a dermatologist. Since it produces greater abrasion, care must be taken. If applied by an inexperienced person, permanent damage could occur on the face or body area where it is applied (facial or body).

As it is “deep,” its reach is greater, so its benefits are also.

It is ideal for removing large scars, purple and red stretch marks, and skin imperfections that cannot be removed with other peels.

Medium Peel

The medium peel works on the superficial and middle layers of the dermis. The outer skin and deeper areas are treated but without reaching the depth of the deep peel.

This type of chemical peel is suitable for removing wrinkles and treating keloid and atrophic scars, and it is appropriate to let the skin rest for several months to regenerate and achieve the final results of the medium chemical exfoliation.

To perform it, trichloroacetic acid, also known as TCA peel, and other abrasive substances capable of penetrating deeply can be used. To prevent the peel from becoming “deep,” the exposure time to the chemical compound and its concentration must be monitored. Mixtures of 20% or 30% are often used, somewhat lower than in other cases where greater depth of skin renewal is required.

Superficial Peel

It is the gentle version of the “deep” and “medium.” It does not penetrate the skin and only works on the surface of the stratum corneum. The superficial chemical peel is a cosmetic treatment that improves skin quality, cleanses pores, and enhances the complexion’s glow and tone.

Since it is much gentler, it can be done frequently, without the side effects and contraindications of the other types of chemical peels. You can have it done every week or every two weeks depending on individual needs.

Opinions on the superficial peel are positive based on the results before and after. But, of course, it cannot be compared with a deep chemical exfoliation.

We can say and think that it is a cosmetic treatment to prevent aging. It is ideal for preventing skin deterioration and helping to stop the damage caused by free radicals. It is an anti-aging treatment that should be complemented with the use of creams and is compatible with facial laser treatments.

Types of Peels for the Body

Once we have a clear understanding of the different types of chemical peels available, it is useful to know the areas where they can be performed.

Some people want to rejuvenate their face by 10 years, while others seek to eliminate acne or improve their hair. Since it is possible to apply chemical peeling to almost the entire body, we will explain the areas that can be improved with chemical exfoliation:

• Acne and spots (facial).
• Hair peel or for the hair.
• For feet.
• Legs.

Acne

It involves applying chemical substances to remove pimples, blackheads, and also to eliminate the marks or scars left by acne vulgaris on the face.

Chemical exfoliation is one of the best facial treatments for the side effects of acne. It regulates collagen production and erases the marks left by large, pus-filled pimples.

The chemical peel for acne is widely used against follicular pore blockage caused by the excess sebum that produces pimples or comedones. By applying active ingredients with exfoliating effects, it is possible to remove facial oil and reduce the appearance of new pimples, as well as remove existing scars.

In this type of peel for acne, glycolic acid and salicylic acid can be used, which, in addition to acting as chemical exfoliants, also have antibacterial properties.

It is ideal to use an acid with sebo-regulating and keratolytic action to open up the pores. This way, fewer pimples will appear, and the sebaceous glands will function better.

In many cases, the chemical peel for acne is used in combination with facial rejuvenation laser treatments (fractional CO2 laser) to increase the benefits and achieve younger, more beautiful skin.

Unlike the facial peel aimed at rejuvenation, the peel for treating acne needs to be repeated every few weeks, approximately every month and a half. It may also be useful to combine acne treatment with tretinoin and retinoic acid.

Hair Peel

Although it falls under the category of “peels“, it is actually more of an exfoliation of the skin covering the scalp area where hair grows, rather than a chemical exfoliation.

The hair peel involves removing excess sebum from the scalp, helping to unclog pores that may be blocked by oil or impurities from everyday life.

The benefits of the hair peel include oxygenating the hair follicles, regulating sebaceous glands, stimulating microcirculation, and improving hair growth.

It is suitable for cases of dermatitis, psoriasis, and in situations where hair loss occurs.

The substances used are not aggressive but rather the opposite. Typically, vitamin derivatives and substances like Minoxidil and Finasteride are used. It is also possible to include some minerals like Zinc in the scalp exfoliation as it is beneficial for hair health.

Feet

Foot rejuvenation is quite common, although it often goes unnoticed. It is much more commonly used in the summer than in the winter.

With the foot peel, it is possible to remove calluses, corns, and improve the appearance of the heels, the back of the feet, the toes, and soften the soles of the feet.

Depending on the type of problem or the results you want to achieve, different hydrating or abrasive active ingredients can be used.

In general, the main problem with feet is dehydration and the formation of corns due to friction from improper footwear. With the foot peel, a hydrating mask is applied that nourishes and repairs the plantar tissue. It also increases cellular vigor and stimulates collagen synthesis in the skin of the foot.

In case of calluses, a chemical can be applied to destroy the hyperkeratosis or they can be scraped off with equipment used by podiatrists. Calluses appear from the accumulation of keratin, making the skin thicker and rougher.

Legs

This is very commonly used by women, but it can also be done for men. The leg peel rejuvenates the tissue and removes scars from the lower limbs. It can be performed both deeply and superficially, achieving good results in just a few weeks.

The difference between having a peel on your legs and one on your face is simply the area where it is applied. Everything else is similar, taking into account the needs of the treated area.

After application on the calves, you can observe how the regeneration of the stratum corneum gradually increases, allowing you to show off beautiful and attractive legs after a few weeks.

If used in conjunction with laser hair removal, the results are amazing.

Like the other versions of the chemical peel, the leg peel can use either chemical substances or natural exfoliants. It can also be supported by so-called laser therapy or leg rejuvenation treatments with laser.

The results of the chemical exfoliation or the peel for legs include the removal of age spots and excess hyperpigmentation. You will achieve smoother skin and an even leg tone.

Chemical Substances Used in Peeling ⭐⭐

• Retinoic acid.
• Phenol.
• Glycolic acid.
• TCA.
• Salicylic acid.
• Lactic acid.
• Ferulic acid.

As you can see, there is a wide variety of exfoliating substances that are useful in peeling. Some are mild, and others are very abrasive, making it appropriate to use each one in different situations.

Since you’re likely interested in knowing all the details about the products used, we will explain the properties and benefits of each one.

Retinoic Acid

It is widely used to treat acne and the scars it leaves on the face. The peel with retinoic acid is a facial rejuvenation treatment applied by dermatologists, ideal for treating acne.

This type of peel offers many advantages since the active substance is a metabolite of vitamin A with depigmenting properties. It removes the superficial layers of the skin, has whitening effects against hyperpigmentation, and its benefits are for acne types I, II, and III.

The retinoic acid peel stimulates collagen formation and helps with facial sagging, producing younger, rosier skin, without spots, imperfections, and fewer wrinkles.

Since it is a facial exfoliant that destroys the tissue forming the stratum corneum, precautions must be taken when using it. Care for the face after application with moisturizing creams that help regenerate the epidermal tissue, as well as sunscreen with full protection to avoid spots from sun exposure.

It is currently applied in different concentrations, which can be retinoic acid at 8%, 5%, or in measurements such as 0.05, 0.02, etc. This last reference measure is more common in retinoic creams.

In some individuals, the amount included in the peeling mixture can be adjusted. Depending on facial aging and whether there are more or fewer imperfections, the dermatologist may decide to make it stronger or weaker. This will yield variable results and also a recovery time post-peel of days or weeks.

Mandelic Acid

It works with an alpha-hydroxy acid and has exfoliating and bactericidal properties, characteristics that make it usable in different situations.

The peel with mandelic acid has different depths (superficial, medium, and deep) depending on the mixture used. It is indicated to treat acne scars and signs of facial aging. Mandelic acid is an active substance that acts by depigmenting the skin and regulating sebum production.

It is less aggressive than trichloroacetic acid, which is why it is used more frequently and can be included in the usual peeling protocol. It is even added in low concentrations in depigmenting and anti-spot creams. It is also gentler than the peel done with glycolic acid.

The molecules of mandelic acid are larger than those of glycolic acid, which is why it has less ability to penetrate the deep layers of the skin and, therefore, acts more superficially compared to other chemical substances used in medical and deep peels.

Like other chemical compounds, the exposure time must be controlled to avoid side effects and regulate the depth at which it will act on the skin tissue of the face or body, depending on the area where it is applied.

In general, we can say that mandelic acid is less irritating. Its properties are similar to those of the peel with kojic acid.

Phenol

Known as the Baker formula chemical exfoliation, phenol peel is a skin rejuvenation treatment. It acts against sagging, wrinkles, skin spots, and facial peeling.

The phenol chemical peel is one of the best remedies for facial aging as it provides results very similar to a facelift.

How is the phenol chemical peel done?

For the application of this medical peel, it is necessary to apply phenol acid, which can be mixed with other substances, but it is always the one with the highest presence.

The phenol chemical peel destroys the superficial layers of the skin, removing the aged tissue.

After the treatment with phenol, there is an increase in collagen production, appearing in the deep layers of the epidermis, giving the skin greater elasticity and plasticity. There is less sagging, and expression lines almost completely disappear.

This exfoliation is special because the skin must be prepared to absorb the phenol acid. Between 30 and 40 days of cosmetic treatment should pass before it can be applied.

Where is the phenol peel applied?

It is very versatile and practical, as in addition to being applied to the face, the phenol peel can also be performed on the hands, neck, and chest. Therefore, it is useful for rejuvenating all the important areas of the body.

Why is phenol peel better?

Because its reach is deep. With phenol, it is a deep peel. It acts on many layers of the skin, so its anti-aging results are extensive.

However, anesthesia is required to perform it, so a medical check-up is also a prerequisite to ensure its viability.

The results can be seen after months. During this period, continuous cosmetic treatment should be maintained to help the skin in its evolution.

Glycolic Acid

It is an aesthetic treatment that can be done at home or in a professional clinic. The glycolic acid chemical peel is perfect for eliminating facial spots, removing scars, and erasing expression lines.

The glycolic acid peel can also be used on faces with acne. It requires only one application.

How is the glycolic acid chemical peel done?

Considered an organic peel since glycolic acid is a substance obtained from sugar cane, it is applied by putting the chemical compound on the face.

Glycolic acid produces exfoliation of the skin, making it ideal for removing superficial dead cells and neutralizing the signs of aging.

To perform it, it is necessary to clean the face and apply a mixture of glycolic acid with soothing substances. This promotes de-inflammation and reduces redness after the peel.

After a few minutes of exposure to glycolic acid, it is removed from the skin. This is the moment to apply nourishing substances like hyaluronic acid, collagen, and elastin. This improves tissue regeneration in the dermis and promotes hydration, making the results much greater.

As with all chemical and natural exfoliations, it is necessary to use sunscreen to prevent the appearance of facial spots.

When to use glycolic peel

• Facial spots.
• Acne scars.
• Facial sagging.
• Dull skin tone.
• Open pores.

After applying this peel, several weeks must pass to see the full results. Although it is less invasive than phenol, the stratum corneum is destroyed, so you must wait for the collagen to reform and the elastic fibers to regenerate.

TCA

It is a medical peel performed with trichloroacetic acid. The TCA peel is used to remove facial spots, eliminate wrinkles and expression lines, and is also effective against acne scars.

Through chemical exfoliation with trichloroacetic acid, the middle and superficial layers of the epidermis are renewed. It can be performed either superficially or medium-depth, depending on each person’s needs.

Advantages of the TCA Chemical Peel

• Younger skin.
• Uniformity in skin color.
• Elimination of wrinkles and expression lines.
• Disappearance of acne scars.

Depending on the case, it can be performed with greater or lesser depth, reaching only the stratum corneum or going deeper to the basal layer of the epidermis, the papillary dermis, and even renewing the upper reticular layer.

The advantages of the TCA peel are that its results can be regulated, making it suitable for both superficial and deep treatments. The action can be controlled by using different concentrations. Trichloroacetic acid can be used at 15%, 25%, or any desired percentage.

What is in the TCA peel?

• Alpha-hydroxy acid.
• Vitamins A, C, E, and H.
• Antioxidants.
• Saponins.
• Trichloroacetic acid.
• Anti-rosinases.
• Phytic acid.
• Tretinoin when necessary.

Before applying trichloroacetic acid as the main formula in the TCA peel, the skin must be prepared with dermocosmetic substances. This way, the tissue absorbs the active substance better, producing the chemical exfoliation.

Once the TCA is removed, it is also necessary to use other compounds and trace elements to accelerate skin recovery. A cocktail of vitamins, antioxidants, and moisturizing substances like hyaluronic acid is used.

This reduces inflammation and hides the redness that appears as a side effect of the peel.

Salicylic Acid

Ideal for treating acne due to its antibacterial properties, the salicylic acid peel is superficial.

How is the chemical peel with salicylic acid done?

As a prior step, it is necessary to treat the skin with keratolytic substances. These are compounds that act by thinning the skin and softening it, which allows the salicylic acid to penetrate better into the epidermis.

By weakening the keratin, the application of the salicylic acid peel will be much more beneficial in treating acne effects.

The keratolytic treatment (glycolic acid, tretinoin, etc.) should be started 2 to 3 weeks before. This way, the skin is prepared, and when the salicylic acid formula is applied, it can act effectively.

As a subsequent step, before the salicylic acid chemical peel, the skin pores are cleaned to remove sebum and impurities.

Once the skin is prepared and clean, the exfoliating treatment to rejuvenate the complexion begins. Typically, a 30% mixture is used.

The salicylic acid will penetrate the skin, forming a whitish layer. At this point, it stops acting and is deactivated.

Advantages of Salicylic Acid Peel

• No need to use neutralizing substances.
• It is superficial and does not damage the deep dermis.
• Good results against acne.

The advantages of the salicylic acid peel compared to other types of peels are the properties of the compound used. Salicylic acid acts against acne, pimples, and blackheads, and also shows good results against skin flaking.

It is widely used to treat skin conditions such as psoriasis, ichthyosis, and to remove calluses, corns, and warts. It eliminates pore blockages, promoting the treatment of acne vulgaris.

Lactic Acid

This type of exfoliation uses a substance derived from plant milk. The lactic acid peel belongs to the group of carboxylic and alpha-hydroxy acids, perfect for controlling excess oil on the face and eliminating small sunspots. It is also suitable for treating acne-induced imperfections.

The lactic acid chemical peel works by producing facial exfoliation. It acts as a depigmenting and bactericidal agent. It softens the superficial layers of the skin and is not very aggressive, so it can be used in many more cases than deep peels.

Benefits of Lactic Acid Peel

• Improves skin softness.
• Eliminates small spots and imperfections.
• Rejuvenates skin tissue.
• Evens out skin tone and adds youthfulness to the face.
• Activates blood circulation.
• Cleanses pores.
• Does not damage the deep layers of the epidermis.
• Corrects pH balance.

The lactic acid peel is perfect for treating small imperfections without damaging the deeper layers of the skin. It has the advantage of calming irritated skin and also works against acne.

It can be used alongside other cosmetic acids like mandelic acid or glycolic acid, allowing its penetration and results to be regulated.

When to Use Lactic Acid in a Peel?

It is ideal when there are small spots on the face, dull skin tone, and mild expression lines. Topically applied lactic acid works against the signs of facial aging, facilitating cellular regeneration and promoting the synthesis of new collagen.

Additionally, it can also serve as a facial cleansing treatment. It removes sebum that clogs pores and significantly reduces facial redness.

The lactic acid peel can be used for:

• Peeling.
• Acne.
• Red spots on the face.
• Psoriasis.
• Rosacea.
• Rough skin.
• Excess facial oil (nose, forehead, cheeks, etc.).

Ferulic Peel

It is natural and antioxidant, blocking free radical damage and promoting an even skin tone. The ferulic acid peel is a facial rejuvenation treatment that works to eliminate small imperfections caused by UVB and UVA radiation.

It can be applied alongside vitamins as it enhances the effects of vitamin C and E, antioxidants that are necessary for proper skin health.

As a superficial peel, it does not have the side effects of other types and can be done frequently. Additionally, there is no need to use makeup in the following days to conceal facial redness since it does not damage the middle and deep layers of the skin tissue.

The antioxidant effects of ferulic acid are beneficial for protecting against aging and slowing down skin deterioration during the months with more sun exposure.

When to use the Ferulic Acid Peel?

• When there are pink or dark spots on the skin.
• For dry skin.
• Acne.
• Photoaging.

The properties of the ferulic peel inhibit the formation of facial spots caused by excess pigmentation.

It regulates the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase, which is involved in controlling oxidation. One of its advantages is that it is superficial, light, and has few contraindications, making it suitable for most people who wish to rejuvenate their facial skin without damaging the tissue.

Kojic Acid

It is a natural peel since the active substance (kojic acid) comes from fungi and rice fermentation.

The uses of the kojic acid peel are to treat hyperpigmentation. When there are red or dark spots on the skin, it acts as a facial exfoliant. It has properties to remove the aggregation of melanin, lightening the skin tone and activating the formation of new collagen and elastic fibers.

Although kojic acid is less well-known than other AHA acids, it is increasingly used as one of the gentler acids for treating imperfections and facial aging. It has fewer side effects and contraindications than other chemicals that penetrate deep into the dermis.

It can be safely used at concentrations of 2%. When the mixture is made with values above 5%, it should only be applied by dermatologists and professionals dedicated to skincare. In low doses, as with glycolic acid, it is much more tolerable, and the exposure of the skin to kojic acid is less problematic, making it an active ingredient in many depigmenting creams and gels for skin lightening.

Lactobionic Peel

It involves applying a layer of Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) to the skin. Through the application of lactobionic acid, a gentle facial exfoliation is produced, without reaching the medium or deep level.

The lactobionic peel irritates the skin minimally, which makes it ideal for rejuvenating the skin without causing redness or subsequent inflammation.

Its mechanism of action is slower, allowing for much better control. It destroys the corneal layer, but it is slow, so the exposure time is much more tolerable, making it easier for the person performing the peel to estimate when it has acted to the desired point.

At the same time as producing a chemical exfoliation, lactobionic acid hydrates the skin and acts as an antioxidant. It protects against free radicals, improving the results of the peel.

It is recommended for:

• Facial spots.
• Superficial imperfections.
• When there is an allergy to other chemical exfoliants.
• In cases of psoriasis to help with flaking.
• To eliminate expression lines.
• To even out skin tone.

Is a Peel Better than a Depigmenting Cream?

The peel always delivers better results than depigmenting creams. Its action is much deeper, as it can penetrate several layers of the epidermis, removing imperfections and destroying melanin clusters.

On the other hand, using a depigmenting cream has many benefits for evening out skin tone, but it cannot be compared to a chemical peel. Its results, although good, are much lower than those produced by chemical exfoliations or natural acids.

The creams used as peels contain less active substance, which is why they need to be applied daily instead of just once.

Price of the Chemical Peel

There is a wide variety of prices as well as types of peels. The most affordable start at around €130, and they can reach up to €500 for a medical or dermatological peel.

Always consider the type of substance used and the results. The milder peels tend to have lower costs, both because the active ingredient is cheaper and because the benefits are short-term. In contrast, the price of a peel performed by a dermatologist is higher, but its medium- and long-term results are also more significant.