What is glycolic acid and how to use it for acne, spots, peeling, and stretch marks

The glycolic acid is a substance widely used in creams and beauty cosmetic treatments. Nowadays, there are different brands that sell their products based on glycolic acid, also known as hydroxyacetic acid, which work to improve facial skin and certain areas of the body’s epidermis such as blemishes, small acne scars, stretch marks, and other skin imperfections.

It has applications to improve the tissues that form the dermis since its properties are depigmenting and exfoliating. By learning to use it, you can remove the outer layer of the skin, so its benefits are to stimulate skin regeneration, resulting in it being covered by new cellular tissue, without imperfections, and with a younger, smoother skin tone free of the typical imperfections caused by age and the passage of time.

The uses of glycolic acid are as an exfoliating agent, both in its homemade form and as a pharmacy product, cosmetic, or dermatological treatment performed by dermatologists and estheticians.

But to use it, you need to understand all its properties and benefits, the advantages over other cosmetic acids, and the exposure times on the skin. Depending on its concentration (at 50, 25, 20, 10, 5, etc.) you should leave it on for only a few minutes or overnight, either for a superficial facial exfoliation, to remove dead cells and tissues obstructing facial breathing, or to promote the renewal of the deeper layers of the skin.

You can also use it as a depigmenting agent to remove sun-induced blemishes on the face. So, since it has different properties and uses, we will now explain what it is, what it is used for, its properties and benefits, and how you should use it.

What is glycolic acid and what is it used for

Glycolic acid is an acid found in fruit but is usually obtained from sugar cane.

It is one of the so-called AHAs or alpha hydroxy acids used as a facial and body exfoliant. It is similar to mandelic, malic, lactic, tartaric acids, etc.

Cream

In the formulation of cosmetics, it is a highly used substance due to its exfoliating properties. It is very practical as an ingredient when its concentration is low, allowing it to be used daily as a facial treatment along with other anti-wrinkle substances.

Brands such as ISDIN, Collistar, Ordinary, Sesderma, or Neostrata have glycolic acid creams that help to exfoliate the skin, evening out the complexion and removing the layer of dead cells that prevents complete oxygenation of the face.

By using this type of hydroxy acid regularly, you can achieve an even tone, without facial blemishes, with better natural brightness, and, in short, a much younger appearance.

There is an incredible variety of cosmetic products and glycolic acid creams with prices ranging from $10 to $100; often, staying in a mid-range will get you the best without needing to go for luxury cosmetics.

Although in its section you have the best glycolic acid creams, here is an example of what we have discussed: Sesderma Acglicolic which works very well. You can also see Neostrata with glycolic acid which acts as a peeling and depigmenting agent.

Peeling

A key ingredient in most peels performed in aesthetic clinics and by dermatologists, it works by removing the outer layer of the skin. The properties of glycolic acid peeling are:

• Depigmenting.
• Exfoliating.
• Anti-scar.
• Acne treatment.
• Anti-wrinkle.

Regular peeling uses produce a deep renewal of the facial skin. It can also be applied to other areas of the body, producing the same effects, such as removing dead cells, roughness, calluses, and imperfections caused by skin hyperpigmentation.

To use it properly, you should regulate the amount applied, starting with low doses and increasing as the treatment is repeated.

Something very important is to be careful as it is an irritating product. It can exfoliate deeply, exposing the middle layers of the skin, which could cause the same damage as a chemical burn.

Ideally, it should be performed by an esthetician or dermatologist, although in many cases it can be used at home, making a homemade peel that, while it works wonders, as indicated, should be done with some knowledge to avoid potential side effects.

The advantage of doing it at home is that it is much cheaper, though it also carries more risks. If you are interested in this method, we recommend you read all the information in the glycolic peel section. This way, you can learn how to do it yourself and decide if it suits you.

Just remember, at high concentrations, when glycolic acid is pure, you must be very careful, dilute it, and remove it from the skin in a few minutes. This way, it will help with acne, remove scars and marks left by pimples, and serve as an anti-wrinkle treatment.

If you use it this way, remember that you should always use a neutralizer to stop its action and prevent it from continuing to penetrate the deeper layers of the skin.

Spots

It is ideal for treating skin imperfections and thus removing spots on the face with glycolic acid.

Skin melanin can cluster, forming bumps and darker areas, known as brown facial spots, red spots, lentigines, and freckles.

To achieve good results for this purpose, that is, to remove facial spots, glycolic acid should be used as a peel or depigmenting cream.

The results from peeling are much greater than with creams. However, not everyone needs peeling, which is why many cosmetic laboratories include it in their formulas.

For small facial spots, you can apply a glycolic acid cream every day; if you notice some irritation, use it every other day. For large spots on the face, it is ideal to start with shallow peels and, depending on the results and tolerance to hydroxyacetic acid or alpha hydroxy acids, continue with the next treatment by increasing the dose or exposure time.

We recommend that you start with creams and if, after several weeks, the effects are not as desired, consider a more intense treatment like peeling.

Acne

It works against comedones, blackheads, pimples, and the small scars they leave on the face. Glycolic acid for acne is one of the best treatments you can use to regulate sebaceous production and achieve a superior appearance.

As an anti-acne treatment, glycolic acid removes dead cells from the surface layers covering the skin, stimulates cell regeneration, and new collagen synthesis, which provides greater elasticity, natural shine, and smoother skin overall.

Many dermatologists recommend it, both in creams and peels. Generally, a cleansing lotion is applied first, then glycolic acid, followed by a neutralizer, usually consisting of natural proteins and substances that inhibit it, stopping its effects at that moment.

To complete the treatment with glycolic acid for acne removal, hyaluronic acid, collagen, or moisturizing and soothing substances like aloe vera are applied. This final part may vary depending on skin type, age, and each person’s specific needs. But it is important that after using it, you use a mask to nourish and speed up the regeneration of the tissues.

Stretch Marks

Another common use is as an anti-stretch mark treatment. Indeed, glycolic acid for stretch marks works very well.

Just like with scars and imperfections, applying a thin layer on the epidermis has exfoliating effects, causing the upper cells that form the skin to disappear, leading to new cellular tissue covering the area.

Although stretch marks will gradually disappear, it is common to need 4 or 5 sessions or even more. Over time, you will notice how the area with scar tissue reduces week by week.

To remove them, you can either buy creams with 50% glycolic acid for stretch marks or perform the peel. If the stretch mark is recent, young, and not very large, it is likely to show good results. For older and larger stretch marks, it is normal to opt for the peel we discussed.

How to Use It

The application depends directly on its concentration. The higher the concentration, that is, whether the glycolic acid is pure or not, you should apply it 1 or 2 times a day, either at night or once a month.

This is because, being irritating and exfoliating, using glycolic acid at 70% or 50% will have peeling effects, so you need to allow the epidermis to regenerate before reapplying.

On the other hand, when it comes to glycolic acid creams, it is normal to apply them 1 or 2 times a day (always check percentages and usage instructions for each brand).

That said, here’s how to use glycolic acid:

Creams

• Apply preferably at night.
• With a clean face, spread a small amount to cover the entire skin.
• Leave it on overnight while you sleep or remove it after 5 minutes (see the leaflet). Some formulas are designed to act for hours, while others should be removed quickly.
• In the morning, wash the area thoroughly with plenty of water and neutral soap.
• Then apply a small amount of moisturizing cream like hyaluronic acid or aloe vera.
• Once absorbed, use sunscreen to prevent hyperpigmentation that could lead to spots on the face or the treated body area.

Remember that the way to use glycolic acid may vary between brands; many are intended for daily use.

Peeling

• Apply once a month or every 2 months depending on skin characteristics.

With peeling, it is better to err on the side of caution rather than overdoing it. As its effects are much more intense, it is better to repeat it after several weeks rather than making it too aggressive, which could cause more redness and even inflammation.

What Percentage Should You Use?

If it’s your first time using it, it may be too strong initially. Many people experience irritation, itching, and burning in the first hours after application.

These side effects gradually disappear as the skin adjusts and builds tolerance. If not, you might try using it every other day, that is, alternating days until you have less sensitivity.

Another option is to use it at a lower strength, starting with glycolic acid 10, 20, and increasing as you notice it is not achieving the desired effects.

What to Do After Using It

It is very important to always use full-spectrum sunscreen, whether the treatment was on the face or the body. You should avoid sun exposure as taking sun without protection greatly increases the likelihood of developing spots on the skin.

Summary of Properties and Benefits

This substance is most commonly used as a base for chemical peels, as a cosmetic for removing spots on the face, and for promoting skin rejuvenation. It works very well for these purposes. The properties of glycolic acid for the face and for superficial skin tissues, exterior membranes, and beauty treatments are effective both in specialized centers and at home.

Being water-soluble, it is easy to handle and prepare masks and cosmetic creams.

Due to its very small molecular structure, it can quickly penetrate the skin, offering many cosmetic advantages and properties.

If you use it in high concentrations, you must be cautious as it can be very irritating and even cause burns. Always remember that it is an acid.

Side Effects

As an irritating acid, caution is necessary when using it as it can cause redness and “burns“. These can vary in severity depending on the exposure time and concentration used.

In addition, the side effects of glycolic acid include:

• Redness of the skin.
• Irritation.
• Burning sensation.
• Itching.
• Skin darkening, hyperpigmentation, spots.
• Skin peeling.

Contraindications

• Pregnancy.
• Breastfeeding.
• Use of retinoids and vitamin A derivatives, retinol, etc.
• Photosensitivity.
• Skin diseases.

Contraindications for glycolic acid during pregnancy should always be followed. There is a risk of fetal malformations and other developmental problems for the baby. As with retinoids, it is better to wait a period after childbirth before starting treatment with this substance.

For breastfeeding, there is no evidence that it can cross the plasma barrier and be excreted in breast milk. However, even though the risk is very low, it is safer to avoid it if possible. The topical doses in creams are not large enough to reach the breasts unless applied directly to them, which is highly discouraged for nursing mothers.

Usage Tips

For purchased cosmetic products, such as creams, always follow the usage instructions. If you are making a homemade mixture, be very cautious. When using exfoliating substances on the skin, it’s crucial to pay close attention to the time of exposure and any potential allergies they may cause.

In general, you should monitor exposure times carefully. The simplest approach is to do a patch test on a small area of skin a few days before. This way, you can check if glycolic acid has any side effects or adverse reactions on your body.

Remember

Glycolic acid is very irritating and has strong properties, so you need to be careful if you purchase it in its pure form. In this case, dilute it to the correct proportion.

However, when buying glycolic acid creams, the situation is different. Follow the brand’s instructions, and that’s it. If it’s a product of this type, you shouldn’t be worried as the dose will be diluted and the cosmetic concentration adjusted to ensure it works well and delivers the expected results.

Creams typically have beneficial effects without causing irritation or burning, or at least much less than other forms of use.

Nevertheless, some people, even using glycolic acid at 10%, may experience burning. This is because of individual sensitivity, so it is likely you will notice tingling, mild irritation, and redness in the first few hours after application.